by
farquhar
@ 2007-10-07 - 19:25:26
It started calmly enough. The weather had turned two days ago. The first had seen high cloud spreading in around early afternoon. On the second day the rain came. A succession of showers, driven inshore by a swirling wind, raced across the island low and hard, falling in large drops at first then intensifying, sweeping down in sheets and sending up a fine mist as it hit the rocky ground.
The third day had started dry, with the cloud breaking but refusing to retreat beyond the horizon. We scanned the sky and decided to take a chance and ride the bikes into town. This would take about forty-five minutes, time enough we figured. We were right. If anything, the weather was showing signs of clearing, the cloud giving away, albeit with some reluctance, to a growing patch of blue. We indulged ourselves at our favourite café with a house speciality – two homemade plum sundaes. Loaded with calories, but the bike riding would go some way to burning them off. Besides, we were on holiday, time enough for tedious self-control once we were home.
The thought still in our minds, this being our last day for glorious excess – for the next day we’d be leaving - we decided to break the journey back to the apartment and stop off at a beach bar for a good lunch. We set off on the back roads, the thick pungent aromas from trees and wild herbs, refreshed by the recent rains, hanging heavy in the warm air. We passed fields, bordered with dry stone walls with olive trees growing, their extended branches held aloft with forked stakes, hobbled goats and sheep grazing beneath. The red volcanic earth glowed in a sun now clear of cloud.
Cycling past the direct route to the bar, we planned to leave the bikes on a beach closer to home and walk back along the shore. Despite the doom-laden forecast from the café owner in town, the day was improving, the heavy cloud now pushed back to the outer reaches of sky close to the horizon line.
Taking time, we ambled along the shoreline, eyes down looking for treasures blown in on the heavy surf of the last two days. By the time we reached the bar the sunshine had lured the first sunbathers back to the beach, recently denied their addiction to tanning and desperate to make-up lost time. A glance skyward showed a growing dark cloud forming over the distant headland, but moving steadily away, leaving us in the clear. Satisfied that all was well, we took our seats and ordered.
An hour passed and as is the way on small islands, things are often not what they seem where the weather is concerned. The thickening cloud suddenly began moving against the direction of the wind, quickly covering what had been an azure sky with menacing grey. The freshening, cool breeze drove the patrons seated outside to seek security under the roof covering the terrace.
Waiters gathered in a huddle and scanned the heavens. After a brief exchange they hurried away, soon returning with the handles needed to wind down the heavy-duty awnings that surrounded the terrace. This done, they then added ropes, lashed to the roof pillars to prevent the sail-like protective walls from whipping around in the blustery wind.
Despite the leaden, slate coloured skies, the rain held off. A family of four seated next to us paid their bill and set off along the beach, deciding to go before things got worse. Influenced by their move, we decided to follow. Jackets zipped, hats pulled firmly down, we struck determinedly for home, the wind at our backs, propelling us along. A glance over my shoulder confirmed the mistake of our foolish gamble.
Above us was a scene from ‘Close Encounters’. The inky firmament billowed and swirled, rising ever higher, about to engulf us like the cloak of some malevolent pagan god. Surely at any moment the blackness would part and some giant alien ship would appear. But no. All that came was the first few splatters of moisture. We were caught in the open, with no time to make it back to the bar. Ahead, the only shelter was a scattering of wooden huts built by local fishermen to house their boats. We started to run.
Hunkered down in the first shelter was the family who had left minutes before us. We exchanged a snatched wave and pressed on to the next hut. The rain was now driving horizontally along the beach. Lightening flashed all around as we reached shelter; the light had turned to an eerie unearthly orange. With the boat taking up the majority of the space we used its bulk as added protection, crouching down behind it, the storm outside now raging in its full fury.
The sea, a few metres away, was a churning cauldron, the turquoise waves topped with florescent bubbling surf. Thunder came crashing, the wind screamed, the rain lashed. Before long the rustic construction around us showed its weaknesses. Water began to pour in from all directions. Spray blew in from the open ends. Soon there was nowhere to hide. We began to get wet. With the wet came cold. It was easy to understand how people succumb to exposure before too long in such conditions. Outside there was no sign of an end to the deluge.
How long we were there I don’t know. It seemed long, but was probably no more than thirty minutes: Long enough. Then, as quickly as it began, the rain stopped. We emerged cautiously, like soldiers on the Western Front following an incoming barrage. The dusty beach of two days before was now a sodden scene of desolation. Small rivulets ran from the dunes, over the rocks and poured in waterfalls into the sea. We hopped through spreading puddles, then along the slippery boardwalk back to the bikes.
Safe home, a steaming hot shower soon restored us. Then we could sit back in the comfort of warm, dry clothes and recount the spectacle and power of the elements. Truly, a wonder to behold.