by
farquhar
@ 2008-05-25 - 21:40:12
A soldier’s personal account of World War 2 from 12th December 1939 – 2nd March 1946
Part Sixteen – Sea legs

Troop deck
For over a week we sailed in a great wide arc and all but the worst sufferers from seasickness had found their sea legs. When the great rocky sentinel that is Gibraltar rose out of the horizon and we anchored safely and without incident in the famous and historical harbour.
We remained in Gibraltar Harbour for about a week, but I for one, did not find it boring. There was much activity and plenty to see. I was much taken by the view across the harbour of Algiceras, a small, typically Spanish town of small white houses and bright red roofs nestling beneath a background of reddish brown hills. I would have enjoyed the opportunity of exploring it further. Across the Straits, the mysterious, misty peaks of the Atlas Mountains, silent guardians at the gates of the ‘Dark Continent’. Africa! Since childhood a magic word to me with its stories of dense, impenetrable jungles, native tribesmen and savage beasts. And in the anchorage itself the arrival and departure of all shapes and sizes of ships.
There was believed to exist the danger of enemy action by frogmen operating from ‘neutral’ Spain and to combat this each ship was constantly patrolled by squads of men armed with Sten guns, offering a wonderful chance of which full advantage was taken, of pot-shots at anything that floated by, even down to match-stalks. The water itself was patrolled by motor launches and torpedo boats of the Royal Navy who succeeded in making sleep at night a difficult achievement by dropping small depth charges at short intervals all around the ship.
One day it was decided to give us the opportunity of stretching our legs and over a period of two days we were taken ashore in parties of several hundred at a time for a two or three hour expedition into Gibraltar town. The predominantly Spanish appearance of the streets and buildings were largely offset by the uniforms of the police, which was a reminder of the British ownership of the Rock, resembling as it did and rather incongruously, the so familiar dress of the good old English bobby.
When we slid out of Gibraltar Harbour once more the company had somewhat diminished, the majority of the ships that had sailed in convoy with us from the UK having passed through the Straits and into the Mediterranean bound for Egypt and India.
Almost as soon as we left Gibraltar we became more and more conscious of the ever increasing heat as we sailed south and on into tropical waters. Sleeping below decks as we were, so tightly packed that our hammocks touched each other and with all portholes tightly clamped down as an extra safety precaution should the ship be attacked, the heat was stifling. Sleep became almost impossible as the perspiration literally streamed from every pore, sapping every ounce of energy, soaking every stitch of clothing. Only at night, on deck, on security guard duty, did the movement of the ship create a cooler current of air that gave some relief and refreshment from the scorching heat.
I remember one night when I was standing on duty on the fo’c’sle, just below the bridge, I saw a series of flashes, or rather the reflections of flashes down below the horizon out to starboard. I watched them for several minutes, the conviction growing that it was the glow of distant gunfire – perhaps another convoy, or an outlying corvette of our own escort being attacked by an enemy surface raider or U-boat.
I strained my ears for the sound of distant gunfire but heard nothing but the steady swishing of the waves under the bow. I peered anxiously up at the bridge seeking signs of activity that might confirm my suspicions, feeling almost certain that the lookout man, from a vantage point higher and better than my own, must surely have seen it too. I debated whether I should, without any further delay, give the alarm. The realization came quite suddenly. It was a display of tropical lightning - a phenomenon I was to witness again and again every single night I was in the tropics.
One of the things that fascinated me at night in these tropical waters was the phosphorescent glow in the wake of the ship, like millions of sparkling sequins on a deep blue velvet gown. In the daytime there were porpoises gambling, shiny black, in the surf of the bow wave. And flying fish, flashing blue and green as they soared and skimmed in shoals over the surface of the waves. And here and there the ominous, menacing presence of a shark’s dorsal fin, like the miniature sail of a racing yacht sailing along in the Cowes Roads on the Hamble River back home.
One morning a thin pencil line on the port horizon which, taking shape as the minutes passed, slowly formed itself into a coastline, all dark green and palm trees: Sierra Leone, the Lion Rock, the ‘white man’s grave’.

Arriving in the tropics
We were suddenly surrounded by bumboats, manned by half-naked muscular natives, who dived far down into the clear blue water after coins that were thrown overboard by the troops on the decks above. This was Freetown – so named as the place where freed slaves returned to their native continent, released from bondage by the legislation that ended the slave trade. And here, just outside and on the hills overlooking the port, we were taken to Wilberforce Camp, named after the man who contributed so much to the events that gave Freetown its name. We were transported in trucks driven by African Army Service Corps drivers. We left the quays and jetties and motored out into the main palm-lined streets of tall white government buildings, past the shops and market stalls, over bridges, round bends and up the hill to the camp.
Addressed by the Commandant and the Sergeant Major on the parade ground, we then dispersed to our allocated huts – long bamboo bungalows each containing about twenty bunks. My four colleagues and myself and about ten other newcomers found we were sharing a hut with around four or five ‘old coasters’ who, having completed their tour, were in the camp awaiting a boat to take them home.
The West African colonies were notorious as places most difficult to leave. Out of the few homeward bound ships that called, many were already carrying a full load of freight and passengers so that many fellows waited many weeks, sometimes months, to get home. Each day some of them could be seen sitting on the highest point above the camp gazing out to sea, watching for the ships that never seemed to arrive. ‘Heartbreak Hill’ they called it.
To be continued