
Taken with an etching by June Carey which I saw in Chichester on Friday, I visited her website to see more of her work. The site confirmed that I liked what I'd seen and I’ve since started the process to buy one of her etchings. It’s part of a series, many featuring figures and musical instruments that were inspired by a trip to Mexico. This set me thinking about my own fleeting experiences south of the border, down Mexico way. I’ve been three times to Mexico, or strictly speaking, four. Each time the visits have taken place during various trips to the southwestern United States and have only been for the day.
The apparent confusion as to the number of visits probably warrants some explanation. The first time we made the crossing we were staying in El Paso on the border. The sole reason for being there was due directly to Marty Robbins. As a kid I was mad on Westerns and was well acquainted with his gunfighter ballad, ‘El Paso’. Studying a map the very name was enough to revive romantic notions that lingered from childhood. So as we neared this West Texas town, I had visions of dust-blown streets, tumbleweed tumbling, stray dogs sleeping in the shade, cocking an ear as I drove slowly by. But no: El Paso is a large teeming urban metropolis rather like Manchester with sun. Substitute the ship canal for the Rio Grande and there you have it.
Arriving at our motel somewhat frazzled from surviving the frenzied freeway traffic at the height of rush hour, where there was a distinct Latino autonomo to the driving experience, we were never happier to shower off the day’s stresses. Dried, changed and relaxed, we settled down to thumb through the hotel guide for things to do over the next couple of days. Recommended was a walk over the bridge to Juarez on the southern bank of the river that separates the USA from Mexico. Another name to conjure adventure, Juarez featured in a song by Bob Dylan: ‘When you’re lost in the rain in Juarez and it’s Easter time too.’ Well, it wasn’t raining, nor was it Easter, but bright and early next morning we set off in the car headed for the border.
The terms and conditions of our car hire agreement included a standard clause forbidding the vehicle to leave the United States. So the plan was, as already recommended in the guidebooks, to leave the car parked at the border and proceed on foot. Great plan. But somehow we found ourselves at a crossing point dedicated to motor traffic only with no way to turn around due to barriers dividing the carriageways. I was left with no alternative other than to park the car and explain our predicament to the Mexican Immigration Officers manning the borderline. Busy with paperwork they waved me inside the adjacent office. There I was greeted by a happy, smiling uniformed official, complete with resplendent moustache as wide as his grin. It was immediately apparent that his grasp of English-American was equal to my Spanish-Mexican. The conversation, like me, was going nowhere fast. As much as I waved my arms and mimed the action of turning around and going back the way I’d come, he counter-mimed my grand entry into Mexico, adding triumphantly ‘Where you want go? Mexico City? Cancun? I eventually gave in and returned to the car with the news that we were driving across the border, whereupon, at the first opportunity, we would turn around and head back to the good ol’ USA.
The traffic going in to Mexico had been a mere trickle. The traffic coming out was a torrent: albeit a torrent brought to a stop by the barrier of the border. We had no alternative other than to join the line of cars and trucks filled with what appeared to be half the population of Juarez leaving for a day’s work in El Paso. Eventually pulling up to the unsmiling, razor creased and gun toting US immigration official I was pleasantly surprised to be waved through with a casual pre-9/11 nod in the direction of our British passports. Safely back in El Paso we found our way to the pedestrian border crossing, parked the car and once again, set off for Mexico.
Again, the foot traffic was noticeably one-way as we crossed the Rio Grande. Never was a watercourse so misnamed. ‘Rio’ it may be, but ‘Grande’ it most certainly is not. The Manchester Ship Canal would compare to the middle reaches of the Amazon up against this glorified storm drain of barely moving river. Maybe the US authorities were responsible in the past for some south of the border misinformation, hyping the size of the river in an effort to deter would-be illegal entrants to their country from turning up to swim it. A hop, skip and jump would probably get you across in the dry season.
Juarez though was a bustling city, full of fascinating contrasts to its northern neighbour. We spent the day resisting the entreaties of stallholders, shop owners and barmen to sample their wares. Well, most of them anyway. I recall downing a few ice-cold bottles of the local brew in a street side café, much to the relief of the waiters who seemed to be struggling to attract English-speaking tourists. That’s because, to our mild and passing surprise, there were hardly any to be found. Just happy to be there, sampling the sights, sounds and atmosphere, we thought no more about it and after a good day wandered back across the bridge to another world; the land of opportunity, wealth and privilege.
Back at the hotel I switched on the early evening news. The caption across the bottom of the screen read ‘Juarez, Mexico’. Attention grabbed, I concentrated on what the American reporter standing in the streets through which we had just strolled, carefree and footloose, was saying. ‘The authorities in Juarez again expressed great concern today at the lack of tourists crossing the border to spend their dollars in the city. The situation for traders is now critical as visitors from the US continue to stay away following the deaths of 30 people, gunned down on the streets in the past three weeks. Advice issued by the Governor’s Office and State Department is not to visit Mexican border towns while the situation remains one of open warfare waged between rival drugs gangs.’ Once my jaw ceased to assume the drop position I swallowed hard and called out in the direction of the running shower. ‘You know where we were today, well you’ll never guess…
The following two excursions into Mexico, this time to a much smaller town over the Arizona border, also passed without incident, but without the post visit scare story. The lampshade we bought there still hangs in the bedroom and the earrings are still regularly worn. Or is it the other way around? Anyway, soon I’ll have the etching too. And there’ll always be Marty – ‘Out in the West Texas town of El Paso, I fell in love with a Mexican girl. Night-time would find me in Rosa's cantina; Music would play and Felina would whirl…